When you shop for luxury knitwear, the word "Cashmere" isn't enough to guarantee quality. In the textile industry, cashmere is divided into distinct grades based on its physical properties. If you want true, generational luxury, you need to understand the grade.
Here is how the premium grading system works:
- Grade A (The Gold Standard): This is the highest quality cashmere available. The fibers are incredibly thin—ranging between 14 to 15.5 microns in diameter—and exceptionally long, usually around 34 to 36 millimeters. Because the fibers are so long and fine, they create a tight, resilient yarn that feels like a cloud against the skin and rarely pills.
- Grade B: A middle-tier option where fibers are slightly thicker (around 16 to 19 microns) and shorter. It’s still soft, but it will feel noticeably more substantial, less silky, and will be much more prone to pilling and losing its shape over time.
- Grade C: The lowest grade, often utilized in mass-market fast fashion. These fibers are thick (above 19 microns) and short. It scratches rather than soothes, and it lacks the thermal regulation properties of premium wool.
The Multi-Ply Secret
Beyond the grade, look at the ply and gauge. Ply refers to how many threads are twisted together to make a single yarn. 2-ply is the sweet spot for versatility, offering durability without excessive bulk. Gauge is the tightness of the knit—a higher gauge means a denser, stronger garment. When buying premium, always look for Grade A, 2-ply knitwear.

